Vietnamese street food : Mien banh da cua (brown rice noodles with crab)

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In Hanoi, a lot of the food you encounter is noodle orientated and seemingly tourists go crazy for phở and Bún noodles – which are both great, by the way – but what about other noodles? Mien or bánh đa?
Although bánh đa is, like the aforementioned a rice noodle it’s brown, with a chewier texture. It’s a really nice variation when you’re a little noodled out with the more popular soft, white rice noodles.

The dish itself eaten is mien bánh đa cua. Mien refers to thin noodles, usually known to westerners as glass noodles, or vermicelli. Bánh đa is the thick, flat brown rice noodle with visual similarities to tagliatelle. Cua as in crab refers to the broth.

a bowl of delicious mien banh da cua

a bowl of delicious mien banh da cua with Dill fishcake (top left) wilted greens (centre) cha lua (middle right) and tofu (bottom and right hand side)

Traditionally, the meal is from Hải Phòng, on the coast near to the well-known attraction of Hạ Long Bay – it is something you can find in the bigger cities.

The mixture of noodles are served with sausage shaped chả lụa (seasoned pork ground to a paste before being wrapped in banana leaves and steamed until a sausage-like loaf is made) some crumbed crabmeat, flakes of soft meat, greens (it may be morning glory, or a type of water spinach – I’m not sure) beansprouts soft pillows of tofu, boiled egg and a fried fish cake overflowing with fresh dill flavours.
Table options included crushed peanuts and chilli sauce to personalise the flavours.

Overall, it’s one of the best noodle soups available in Hanoi – an overflowing bowl of delicious ingredients, contrasting texture and flavours.

We ate at Mien Bánh Da Cua , 59A Phùng Hưng, on the eastern side of the Old Quarter. A bowl cost 30’000VND, little English spoken but the lady chef was eager to feed us on every visit.

Some useful phrases
Sin chow – hello
Mot – one
Hai – two
Gam urn – thank you
Tra da – iced tea, a popular and cheap drink to accompany meals and usually available at hole in the wall restaurants (pronounced cha)

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